Plywood hood with fluorescent lighting for 10 gallon

[stpierce]

I am about to finish restoring my second metaframe 10 gallon and am going to place them side by side on a black 55 gallon stand I have in my bedroom (I'll post some pictures when I get it together). Here are my obstacles/questions in order to finish:
1. I was thinking I want to make matching hoods for the both of them and was thinking I might use a relatively high quality plywood and then seal it with several coats of black latex paint. I would like to use plywood because I am using aquaclear HOB filters but do not want my betta falx to be able to jump out. I could make a cutout for the filters but still cover the majority of the top. Will this plywood warp even if I use a good bit of paint to seal it?
2. I currently have a Current USA PC 2 X 40w Power Compact retrofit lighting system with one side lighting up my existing 10 gallon. The bulb is a 6700k/10,000k and does not grow plants like I was hoping it would. My Java Ferns have melted to almost nothing but not regrown, java moss is not doing too well, jungle val has minimal growth, and several other plants have died out, my micro chain sword is the only thing growing as expected. I can buy a second bulb for the second tank (which will be about $25) or I can go with a DIY cfl setup. I have priced out reflectors and the regular spiral bulbs and I think I can get this setup for about the same price.
I have the same plants I want to grow in 2 other tanks in my house that are running under a mixture of 6500k 5000k t8 bulbs that are doing great. Do you think I will get better growth with the cfl setup (6500k & 5000k bulb in each tank) or with another Current USA 6500k/10,000k bulb? Am I worrying too much about Kelvin ratings? It just seems like my cheaper light setups are growing much better right now than my Current USA one.
The tanks are 20" long each
Thanks for reading and ANY suggestions
Simon

[dennysfishroom]

I would be suspect of any plywood unless you used an epoxy paint or something similar. The edges in particular would need to be coated well. Plywood can stand up to water as evidenced by aquariums made of plywood, but you do have to keep the water from getting between the plies. I'll let someone else answer the lighting questions.

[mewickham]

I agree with Denny. I wouldn't use latex paint. I used some to paint the back glass is store tanks once. Within a couple of years, it was turning to powder and coming off. Oil-based paint, on the other hand, held up forever. Even then, this was on the outside back glass. The humidity inside the hood will be higher. I believe there are marine (boat) paints normally recommeded for this kind of use, but I'm not sure where you would buy them.

The Kelvin ratings of bulbs aren't dependable. Sometimes it seems manufacturers make up the numbers because similar numbers can look very different. Some have 10,000K bulbs that are white, while others have them as blue! No matter which bulb you buy, different plant species will fare differently under it. A bulb I have always liked is the 9325°K bulb. I buy them here: http://www.lightbulbsdirect.com/page/001/PROD/Aquarium/F55BX-AR-FS. You can see if they have the wattage you need. The 6500K or 6700K bulbs should be good, too, though. You also may have to experiment a bit to suit your own taste. Different bulbs give a "warmer" or "cooler" appearance to the tank, while still growing plants well.

[stpierce]

I have used just black spray paint for the back outside of the glass and it has held up fine since July but I was suspicious the integrity of the paint in the long run so I left 1/4" of the glass unpainted on all sides if I ever wanted to take it off easily. If plywood goes in the questionable category is there something else you would suggest for a lid or lid material? A standard 10 gallon lid does not fit and glass leaves about an inch gap at the back because of the filter. I lost several of my more athletic betta falx to this gap before I moved them to my community tank.

[dennysfishroom]

You can buy a plastic strip that attaches to the glass and covers the gap in back. Just cut it where you need to put your filter or other accessories. It does come in several sizes, so just buy the size you want. Denny

[sskruzr]

I may have some of that plastic strip, yours if you want it.

[stpierce]

I would love to get my hands on some of this strip material you talk about. This like many custom projects before it was beginning to look pretty labor intensive and like a possible money pit. A glass top keeps looking better and better. If were to make it a 2 piece top so I could open it easily feed the fish, do yall have any suggestions for hinges?

[dennysfishroom]

Hinge material is also available, although I think you have to buy a 6' piece. Denny

[sskruzr]

I've got some of that hinge. Ya know there's 2 sizes, one for DS(1/8") and one for 3/16" glass. Maybe I can post a pic of the one I made for my 20L metaframe.

[rpddink]

rustoleum has a spraycan "bed liner" that covers great is water proof and black Great stuff!!! I used it on the bottom of my boat, saw horse, minnow bucket, 30 gal tank stand. steel. this stuff goes on great and lasts!